A Taste of Vietnamese-Cambodian Slapstick

By: EK Encarnacion

The conductor inserted the DVD and the television showed images. I was waiting for a Warner Brothers or Paramount or 21^st Century Fox or Dreamworks or any other international movie production logo to appear but to no avail. Instead, there was just a park.

And then out came actors and actresses dancing and pushing each other, frolicking the park square like a bunch of kindergartens in a carnival to the tune of some festive music. It was just weird, not to mention, very Asian. And then they stopped and started conversing in a language which at first I had trouble deciphering. And then I realized that I couldn’t really figure it out anyways so I gave up listening. I look closely at the screen and saw subtitles. I squinted to read the words as my mom and I were sitting somewhere at the back portion of the bus. I narrowed my eyes until I saw the characters clearly. It was Chinese and Arabic.

I was hopeless.

The actors were conversing in such a way that they seemed to be giving jokes. After every set of punch lines delivered, all actors and actresses burst into laughter in such an overacting manner that it was not just painful to the ears but also to the eyes as well. I look outside and saw the road which sidewalks are covered in what appears to be Iron-rich soil. I was still in the provincial area of Cambodia. There were trees and shrubs and grasses. There were houses made of wood and concrete. There were people and their animals—some, ploughing the field; some, hanging clothes to dry; and others, just running across the dirt. The images kept repeating until I realized that I have exhausted all the imagination I have and turned back to the television.

There I saw the Vietnamese or Cambodian actors and actresses performing skits. In one scene, two actors were knocking at some old lady’s gate. Afterwards, they went running away when she was about to open the gate. They continued to do the prank for six consecutive times. I could no longer imagine how dragging that joke was. But by the end of the skit, the old lady grabbed a pail full of water and threw the liquid upon opening the gate. Pity she drenched a police officer instead and got arrested.  In another scene, a teacher was getting bribes from the parents of his students. The students were all grown-ups dressed in elementary uniforms. He did not enjoy the florist’s son’s flowers or the librarian’s daughter’s books. He, however, was delighted with the box given by the winemaker’s son’s box. He saw that there was something leaking. He touched the hole and wet his finger with the liquid. He placed it in his mouth and was astounded with the taste of what seemed to be the best wine he had ever tasted. When he asked the son what wine was inside, the student opened and revealed a puppy. In another, the actors and actresses were running from what seemed to be a pack of zombies. They ran and panted in between until they reached a junction where they had to choose between a road that leads to a jungle and a road that leads to a cemetery. They kept on fighting and arguing until they saw the wave of zombies approaching. The actors and actresses scrambled in fear. Some of them went to the jungle while the others to the cemetery. Those that went to the jungle were bitten by snakes while those that went to the cemetery bumped into another set of zombies leading to everyone’s demise.

After the credits rolled, revealing the names of the actors and actresses and the production staff; I was just stupefied on my seat with my jaw dropped and mind floating. I just really wanted to get off the bus as I could no longer endure another series of unfunny comedy.

But then after I have lain in bed that night, I realized how significant that DVD was. Even though I do not want to watch it, I was forced to look at it for lack of entertainment. I realized that the DVD was already a form of advertisement, a medium which the natives use to present their culture to tourists like me. I may not understand everything in the show but perhaps some other passenger may have gathered words or phrases which he or she could use for conversations. I may have disliked the skits but the other foreigners may have seen the creativity embedded in the mainland Asian performing arts.

And everything boils down to one idea—a matter of perspective. 

Flying to another country from the Philippines? Learn how to make your way through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport by clicking on the following link:

Making Your Way through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

EK Encarnacion wished he understood everything in that DVD. To learn more of his epic failures, visit his other blogs: Every-Comedy-Thing (life blog), Culinary Coliseum (food blog), and By God’s Grace (gratitutde blog). You may also throw your support by liking his Facebook Fan Page and his Triond Page. 

Ho Chi Minh-Phnom Penh Bus Ride

By: EK Encarnacion

As I munched on some chocolate cupcakes, the bus driver took his seat, steered the wheel and began what seemed to be a good journey across Vietnam and Cambodia. Well, at least that’s what I thought it would be via the Sapaco Bus.

Sapaco Tourist Bus (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

TRAVELOCITIES REMINDER #1

Sapaco is a popular bus company in Vietnam. Its main terminal in Saigon is located at District 1 at the intersection of Pham Ngu Lao Road and Do Quang Dao Street. The said terminal opens for business at around 5:30 in the morning. The schedule of departure of buses are 6:00 am, 7:00 am, 8:00 am, 9:00 am, 10:00 am, 11:30 am and 1:00 pm. Sapaco is said to be one of those that offers the cheapest modes of transportation from Saigon to Phnom Penh, Cambodia (approximately 6 hours travel) and from Saigon to Siem Reap, Cambodia (approximately 12 hours travel). The Saigon to Phnom Penh fare ranges from 11-15 US$ while the Saigon to Siem Reap fare falls within 18-22 US$.  Bus fares are dependent both on the route to be taken and the services included. The usual amenities claimed by the bus company are air-conditioning, checking of passports, usage of toilet, a wet towel, a bottle of water, immigration processing, and a rest stop. For non-ASEAN passport holders, a visa entry for Cambodia is required. The bus company also claims to handle visa processing for about 24-26 US$. Sapaco also promises tagging of checked-in luggage for security, a hand towel, and a snack. But my mom and I were certain that during our travel the company missed out on these three. Despite its appeal to budget backpackers, the bus company has also earned negative comments from a lot (and I really mean it) of dissatisfied (and some, abused) customers. A popular and oftentimes considered to be the most patronized and most suitable substitute for Sapaco Bus is the Mekong Express. Its fare falls on the same range as Sapaco but the services are said to be more complete thus allowing the company to receive a downpour of good reviews.

While the vehicle was making its way through narrow streets towards the expressway going to Cambodia, the bus conductor was verifying and collecting passports (and visa for non-ASEAN passengers) for easy processing at the Vietnam-Cambodia border. My mom took the liberty of communicating with the grumpy conductor (he was really being unfriendly—a said characteristic of Sapaco Bus staff according to another blog entry) while I was taking some shots of the bus interior and the busy city outside. 

Checking of Passports (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Motorcycle-Crowded Intersection (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

A Glimpse of Jollibee (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

There wasn’t really much to see—roadways, houses, apartments, inns, motels, hotels, cafes, bars, restaurants, malls, public terminals, ports, wet markets, and a lot of other typical urban establishments. Ho Chi Minh resembles other metropolises in Southeast Asia. Thank goodness I brought my iPod shuffle to provide me some audio entertainment as I stare with ennui at the monotonous city scenery. (I just notice how I tend to become redundant—“boredom overload” perhaps). But really, it was impossible not to fall into a deep slumber.

Z-z-Z-z-Z *snore*

TRAVELOCITIES TIP #1

If you’re not the type of person who is fond of sleeping during trips (such as I am), then I suggest you bring 2-3 books to read, a fully-charged gadget that can provide you audio entertainment, and/or a few snacks that can satisfy your palate. If you wish, you may also bring your portable DVD player or laptop. But these are items that I am not endorsing as you may be catching the attention of nearby criminals. 

I felt the bus coming into a halt. My mom was waking me up and telling me that we were already nearing the Vietnam-Cambodia border. We were asked to get down from the bus and present ourselves to the immigration. We needed to get our passports marked with the “departure” stamp so as to prove ourselves cleared of all other possible duties and responsibilities in Vietnam.

Immigration Office at the Vietnam Portion of the Border (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

The process at the immigration office (Vietnam portion of the border) was slow and, in my opinion, discriminative. All passengers were asked to wait as names were called out. I remembered how the conductor piled our passports and I knew that my mom and I should have been called within the first ten. But we were not. Apparently, the immigration officers were calling out names of those they can easily pronounced first—mostly Vietnamese, Cambodian and other mainland nationalities. In the end, I learned that most of those who were left behind were mostly Filipinos and Westerners. But I would have understood if it was the only problem.

A second bus has just arrived with a new set of passengers bound for Phnom Penh. And with the most unfortunate and cruel of all circumstances, the immigration officers called out names of locals from the said group first, instead of us who were left behind from the first bus. We were quite disappointed with the unfair process. But not one of us complained because we all know how immigration officers can cause greater trouble if we raise our concerns—for all we know, we may end up being stuck in Vietnam for some made up violation. But again, as what I have mentioned in Part 5 of my Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) travel journal, I am writing such bad experiences so as not to ruin the image of the Vietnamese or any other people for that matter but rather to warn other tourists about such delinquents lurking and giving dishonour to good societies.

After the immigration officer called out my name (I believe I was sixth from last) and my mom’s (she was third from last), we went out of the office and hurried inside the bus to take our seats. I would have wanted to take photographs near the premises of the Vietnam portion of the border but considering the facts that we were last and everyone inside the bus were already waiting for us including the grumpy conductor whose face looked so annoyed (as if it was our fault we got stuck inside!), and that my mom and I did not feel happy taking pictures after standing inside the office for a long time, no one can actually blame us for our choice to head back inside the vehicle.

Monument behind the Immigration Office at the Vietnam Portion of the Border (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

A less-than-a-minute ride (literally!) followed and we were once again asked to get off the bus and enter the immigration office (Cambodia portion of the border).

Cambodian Marker (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Unlike at the Vietnam portion of the border, my mom and I were blessed to be assigned to one of those officers who were able to process documents and stamp passports quickly but efficiently. It was not long after when we found ourselves heading to the exit after a few minutes. We were just about to step outside when we were greeted by a man. “Kumusta kayo?” (Filipino translation of “How are you?”), he said. I replied with, “Mabuti naman po” (Filipino translation of “I’m fine”) and immediately asked, “Gaano na po kayo katagal nagtatrabaho dito?” (Filipino translation of “How long have you been working here?”). He first answered with a smile then continued with, “Sorry, I’m not Filipino. With many Filipinos visiting Cambodia, I was able to learn a few phrases myself.” Hearing his reply made me realize that we, Pinoys, being well-travelled and scattered all over the world, should be having this impact on other nationalities. We should actually be promoting our culture, tradition and language. The Chinese have done an amazing job influencing the world such that it is impossible not to see a Chinatown in a certain country. In addition, Mandarin has become a part of the curricula in many schools and universities worldwide. Would it be nice to have our own Pinoy Villages around the world? And would it be kind-of cool to have other nationalities speaking in our native language? What an ease in communication! I bid the man farewell and joined my mom outside for some photo-ops.

Immigration Office at the Cambodia Portion of the Border (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

The immigration office (Cambodia portion of the border) was just stunning to look at. With intricate roof engravings and other embellishments, the infrastructure may actually be mistaken to be a temple. My mom and I did not hesitate to take some pictures of the building and, of course, of ourselves.

Behind the Immigration Office at the Cambodia Portion of the Border (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Me at the Border (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

My Mom and I (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

We then headed inside the bus to rest as we wait for other passengers. When the conductor finished his head count and realized that all were accounted, the driver made its way to new territory—Cambodia. Several majestic casinos welcomed us as we travel through the highway. It was just surprising for my part since I never envisioned Cambodia to be fond of such entertainment especially that it is considered to be a developing country such as the Philippines.

Titan Casino (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Hours have gone by like minutes and the bus made a stop to allow passengers to have a late lunch. I wasn’t really hungry so it was only my mom who went down and got herself a bowl of steaming noodle soup. It was not long after when the passengers started entering the bus. The conductor did his usual head count when the vehicle seemed full inside and gave the driver a go signal to start the final leg of our journey.

The sceneries to Phnom Penh were rural as oppose to the urban setting just outside Ho Chi Minh. Several little houses lined the roadsides while a few large houses stand somewhere in the middle of the plains. The main highway was somewhat asphalted but the reddish-brown soil have caused it to appear dirty.

It was not long after when we reached a river that cuts across a portion of Cambodia. My mom told me that a small boat able to contain a number of land vehicles will be used to reach the other bank. She said that if the bus driver decided to cross via the bridge located several kilometres away from where we were at the moment, it would take us ages to reach Phnom Penh. And so I was quite amazed that a mode of transportation similar to our very own Ro-Ro (i.e. Roll-on, Roll-off boat) was also being effectively utilized in Cambodia.

Boat Ride (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

The crossing of the bank was relatively faster than what I expected. In a matter of minutes, I found the bus once again making its way through the highway. At this point, the conductor decided to turn on the television and insert a DVD inside the player. I was quite excited to know what the crew decided to feature. And after a few adjustments to the volume and contrast, (Alas!) it was a show that brought me a terrible headache that lasted for an entire night! But the details of that, my friends, will be available in my next blog entry. 

It was a rainy afternoon when the bus reached the heart of Phnom Penh. Different establishments and monuments lined both sides of the road—all drenched by the pouring rain.

Raindrops (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

The bus finally swerved to the terminal where my godmother, uncle and cousins were waiting for our arrival. My mom and I got our baggage and headed towards our relatives. And after a few hugs and kisses, my cousin exclaimed, “Welcome to Cambodia, Kuya!”

Flying to another country from the Philippines? Learn how to make your way through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport by clicking on the following link:

Making Your Way through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

It was EK Encarnacion’s first time to travel from one country to another via land transportation. Although quite relatively uneasy during the entire trip, he believes that it was essential that he was able to experience such in life. To learn more of his viewpoints, visit his other blogs: Every-Comedy-Thing (life blog), Culinary Coliseum (food blog), and By God’s Grace (gratitutde blog). His works are also indexed at one of the best Pinoy blogs, The Filipino Diaspora.  

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 5): On Being Left Hanging

By: EK Encarnacion

After a kilometer of clothing boutiques and restaurants, my mom and I reached the end of Dong Khoi Street where we were greeted by the flowing Saigon River.

TRAVELOCITIES DESTINATION – SAIGON RIVER

Like most rivers in Asia (and perhaps in the world as a whole), the beauty of the Saigon River has faded thanks to the mismanaged progression of urbanization which is fuelled by the overgrowing human population. Mainly used as water supply and for transport of cargoes in and out of the country, the Saigon River is starting to become polluted (which later may result to its eventual non-usefulness) by residential and commercial wastes, loose sediments from the river banks, branches and twigs from nearby trees, and oil spills from crossing boats.

By the Saigon River (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

My mom and I took a few photographs near the port and went back to our tintins to finally end the tour. We silently made our way through Ham Nghi Street—no picture-taking: just me, my mom, our tintin drivers and the rest of Ho Chi Minh.

Inh and his friend dropped my mom and I back to our starting point, 23/9 Park. I got two 5 US$ to pay Inh and his friend for their services. My mom and I were about to turn away when Inh pulled my lower arm and said, “Not 5 US$, 10 US$.” I said, “Yeah, 10 US$ for the both of you. That was our deal a while ago—5 US$ each,” while removing his grip from my wrist. Inh started raising his voice, “But I worked hard! I sweated. I pedalled the tintin. Give us 10 US$ each!” I told him calmly, “I’m sorry but that wasn’t the deal we had.” My mom and I managed to gain a step away but Inh and his friend hastily slid in front of us. “Not 5 US$, 10 US$” he repeated. I was infuriated. I angrily retold him how we ended our deal earlier this morning. But it seemed that all the words coming from my mouth were falling into deaf ears. He kept making reasons—even changing statements every so often. The four of us verbally quarrelled for some time until my mom and I noticed that we were inviting the attention of nearby locals. And then I thought hard. There was no written proof of our deal. It would be difficult to convince other people to side with us—we’re foreigners in the country. My mom and I were standing on another territory. And our bus for Phnom Penh, Cambodia will be leaving in an hour. I furiously pulled two more 5 US$ from my wallet. Honestly, I would have punched the two of them right in their faces for being painfully annoying and for not keeping their promise. But I wasn’t raise to knock people’s jaws. As my mom and I walked away from Inh and his friend, and their tintins; I told myself that I would be including this story of untrustworthiness—not to ruin the image of the Vietnamese people but rather to warn other tourists about such delinquents lurking and giving dishonour to good societies.

Inh (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

My mom and I headed to Ben Thanh Market located across the roundabout to purchase a few pasalubongs to bring with us back home in the Philippines.

TRAVELOCITIES DESTINATION – BEN THANH MARKET

Ben Thanh Market is perhaps the most popular marketplace in downtown Ho Chi Minh. It is a structure that has withstood the test of time and continues to symbolize the humble economy of Vietnam. It is a must-visit site for tourists who would like to bring home a piece of Vietnamese culture including: local handicrafts, beautifully-woven textiles, and souvenirs of varying sizes. It is also home to a few food stalls that offers a bite of real Vietnamese cuisine.

Ben Thanh Market (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Although my mom and I would like to explore the entirety of Ben Than Market, it was time to head back to our guest house, pick up or bags and pay our bill just so we can catch the schedule of our bus’ departure. Whilst carrying the items we bought, we traced back the route we walked during the earlier part of the day. Indeed our [first] Ho Chi Minh encounter was drawing to a close.

When we reached our guest house (with the pungent smell of burning incense-like odor still diffusing throughout the lobby and now reaching the hallways), we finished what needed to be done and left without delay. My mom and I entered the Sapaco Bus Terminal and coordinated with the staff, who in turn directed us towards our assigned bus. As I sat down inside the bus and looked through the window, I recalled from how Minh, our airport taxi driver, warmly welcomed us until how Inh, our tintin driver, coldly treated us. I was having a mixture of emotions coming up with a final impression of Ho Chi Minh and its people. But in the end, I realized that a short stay was not enough to judge the city and the society or, furthermore, if rating a city and its society was even rightful and plausible.

As fellow passengers entered through the bus door, I wished to go back to Ho Chi Minh sometime in the future and indulge myself with more of the beautiful things that the city and the people can offer. I know that down the depths of my mind there is more to Ho Chi Minh than what I had experienced.

And that is one of the things I hate the most: the feeling of being left hanging—the thought of something missing.

Click on the following link to read Part 4:

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 4): At the Heart of Ho Chi Minh

Click on the following link to read about EK Encarnacion’s Ho Chi Minh-Phnom Penh Bus Ride:

Ho Chi Minh-Phnom Penh Bus Ride

Flying to another country from the Philippines? Learn how to make your way through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport by clicking on the following link:

Making Your Way through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

EK Encarnacion isn’t really fond of being placed in an open-ended situation. To learn more of his dislikes, visit his other blogs: Every-Comedy-Thing (life blog), Culinary Coliseum (food blog) and By God’s Grace (gratitude blog). His works are also indexed at The Filipino Diaspora, an online pool of Pinoy writers.

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 4): At the Heart of Ho Chi Minh

By: EK Encarnacion

Inh and his friend continued to tour my mom and I around the city. We fearlessly crossed several major road intersections—squishing our way between colonies of motorcycles (Yes. What else is a better way but to compare them to ants), a few cars and a bunch of humongous tourist buses. And after a blood-rushing ride, we made it (alive and whole—thank you God!) at Saigon Center. Our first stop was the majestic Notre Dame Basilica.

TRAVELOCITIES DESTINATION – SAIGON NOTRE DAME BASILICA

Also referred to as the Notre Dame Cathedral, the Saigon Notre Dame Basilica (Vietnamese names: Vuong Cung Thanh Duong Duc Ba Sai Gon / Na Tho Duc Ba Sai Gon) is located within the Cong Xa Paris hexagonal roundabout—overlooking Dong Khoi Street. Constructed, beautified and completed in the late 19^th century (1850’s–1900’s); the cathedral was an answer to the call of having a sacred place for French colonists and Catholic-converted locals to conduct religious services. Built with materials imported from France (including oven-baked brownish-red bricks from Marseilles), the basilica stands secured on each side by two bell towers with height reaching to about 60.5 meters (including the tallness of the more recently installed crosses). A flower garden was strategically constructed in front of the cathedral with a Roman-made granite statue of the Virgin Mary humbly welcoming everyone at the path to the church’s front door. The Saigon Notre Dame Basilica is not only a place for performing religious rites but also a refuge where people can temporarily stay after a busy day at the city, spend time with loved ones and, last but certainly not the least, take beautiful photographs. And it is because of the last reason why many Vietnamese soon-to-be married couples, models, actors and actresses, and music artists visit the cathedral to do pictorials and video presentations.

Front View of the Saigon Notre Dame Basilica (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Virgin Mary (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Back View of the Saigon Notre Dame Basilica (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Side View of the Saigon Notre Dame Basilica (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

I was actually blessed to chance upon a groom and his bride, and their photographer conducting pictorials at the side of the cathedral for the couple’s wedding album. I was so in-loved with the concept of a European-inspired background that I cannot help but capture that heart-warming split-second through the lenses of my camera. In fact, for some reason I felt envious. And not because I’m single but because I wanted a DSLR camera so badly just so I could have high-resolution pictures of unforgettable moments and settings such as what I have witnessed. But I know that eventually I will be able to afford one at the right time.

Wedding Shoot (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Another famous Vietnamese landmark, the Central Post Office, can be found a few meters from the basilica.

TRAVELOCITIES DESTINATION – SAIGON CENTRAL POST OFFICE

The Saigon Central Post Office (Vietnamese name: Buu Dien Thanh Pho Ho Chi Minh) was built in the early 20^th century (1900’s-1950’s) to serve as a center for sending, receiving and distributing mails—letters and packages. Along with the Saigon Notre Dame Basilica, it is said to be another one of the remaining French contributions in the history of Vietnam. It was conceptualized and designed by acclaimed architect and engineer Gustave Eiffel; who, as the surname suggests, is the pioneer behind the construction of the famous French national landmark, the Eiffel Tower. The prevailing architectural style used throughout the Saigon Central Post Office was European Gothic.

Partial View of the Saigon Central Post Office (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

TRAVELOCITIES INFORMATION – THE LAST LETTER WRITER

Letter writers are those who offer writing services to customers who cannot compose letters on their own. The last official member of this working group was Duong Van Ngo. He has worked at the Saigon Central Post Office until February 2010.

After roaming around and taking photographs, my mom and I headed back to our tintins and traversed the length of Dong Khoi Street, an avenue that is not at all Greek to any certified shopaholic. Standing fierce and proud, the Vincom Center welcomes locals and tourists to Ho Chi Minh’s shopping district.

TRAVELOCITIES DESTINATION – VINCOM CENTER

The Vincom Center is a towering mall overflowing with hundreds, if not thousands, of fashion stores that prove that the Vietnamese are updated to the trendiest clothes, accessories, and items circulating in the Western hemisphere. It also serves as a home to numerous food chains and restaurants that offer some of the most popular foods and beverages in the city. A portion of the building is also dedicated to operate as offices and apartments. The regular operating hours of the establishment is from 9:00 am to 10:00 pm. Click on the following link to read more about Vincom Center.

TRAVELOCITIES LINK #1

Vincom Center Website

Vincom Center (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

A short distance from Vincom Center is the Opera House.

TRAVELOCITIES DESTINATION – SAIGON OPERA HOUSE

Also called as the Ho Chi Minh Municipal Theatre, the Saigon Opera House (Vietnamese name: Nha Hat Lon Thanh Pho Ho Chi Minh) is the third of the three European-inspired architectural inputs placed at the center of downtown Ho Chi Minh during the French colonial period. It is located near the intersection of Dong Khoi Street and Le Loi Street. Mainly designed by architect Felix Olivier and supervised by fellowmen via profession, Ernest Guichard and Eugene Ferret in the early 20^th century (1900’s-1950’s); the theatre resembles the renowned Opera Garnier in Paris, France. Although the three-storey building can seat approximately 1800 individuals, in-house musical performances are rarely organized, held in its premises, and patronized by the public unlike in its European counterpart.

Saigon Opera House (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

The remaining stretch of Dong Khoi Street is lined with boutiques, dining areas and deluxe hotels. Some of which that my camera did not fail to capture includes:

Louis Vitton (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Gucci (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Milano (Photograph by EK Encarnaacion)

Levi’s (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Gloria Jeans’ Coffee (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Times Square 5-Star Hotel (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Marriage, Music and Malling. Saigon Center truly does its best to live as a metropolitan paradise for urban dwellers and visitors—a sanctuary for romance, entertainment, fashion and relaxation at the heart of Ho Chi Minh.

Click on the following link to read Part 3:

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 3): Of Wars and Woes

Click on the following link to read Part 5:

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 5): On Being Left Hanging

Flying to another country from the Philippines? Learn how to make your way through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport by clicking on the following link:

Making Your Way through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

EK Encarnacion dreams of living in a temperate region so that he can wear layers. He loves prep style but is contented with presentable semi-formal and casual attires. To learn more of his other tastes, visit his other blogs: Every-Comedy-Thing (life blog), Culinary Coliseum (food blog) and By God’s Grace (gratitude blog). His works are also indexed at the Filipino Diaspora, an online site filled with Pinoy bloggers.  

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 3): Of Wars and Woes

By: EK Encarnacion

After braving Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street and battling a thousand motorcycles, we finally made a couple of turns into narrower alleys and reached, perhaps one of the most must-sees in Ho Chi Minh, The War Remnants Museum.

The War Remnants Museum (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

TRAVELOCITIES DESTINATION – THE WAR REMNANTS MUSEUM

The War Remnants Museum (Vietnamese name: Bao Tang Chung Tich Chien Tranh) is located at 28 Vo Van Tan Street at District 3. It was formerly known as The Museum of American War Crimes before the United States and Vietnam gained amity. By simply basing on the establishment’s original name, it is obvious that the museum illustrates the atrocities of American troops in Vietnam. Eight themed rooms were designed to portray various aspects of the war. Gruesome photographs such as tanks dragging bodies through the streets, American soldiers apparently water-torturing a Vietnamese fighter, an American M16 rifle pointed against a civilian woman’s head, bodies laying on puddles of blood, heads of dead Vietnamese with American soldiers at the background, and distorted bodies due to exposure and contact with Agent Orange, Napalm and White Phosphorus contribute in creating a spine-chilling atmosphere inside the building. Along with war artifacts and artilleries; jars that contained fetuses greatly damaged by Agent Orange, tiger cages used to detain Vietnamese civilians, and a French guillotine intensify the eeriness diffusing within the museum’s premises and attest the fact that the museum is truly not for the faint-hearted. It is essential to remember, however, that the museum was created from the point of view of the Vietnamese. It is their side of the story. There have been issues and debates about displaced photographs, out-of-context quotations, inaccurate captions and other anti-American propaganda that were utilized to capture the sympathy of the viewers and eventually urge them to brand the Americans as the antagonists in the Vietnam War. Although there will always be a clash in many details of this historical event, the horrific consequences of the Vietnam War (or any war for that matter) will continue to be passed from generation to generation.

The War Remnants Museum is open daily from 7:30 am to 5:00 pm. The ticketing booth closes for a lunch break from 12:00 pm to 1:30 pm. The last admission to the museum is scheduled at 4:30 pm. The cost for the entrance fee is 15000 VND or approximately 0.75 US$.

The War Remnant Museum was one the places I was looking forward to visiting in Ho Chi Minh. But alas! Of all the possible days in the year, the museum was unavailable that day due to cleaning and/or renovations! You don’t know how disappointing it was—travelling for miles, standing at the gate, inches away from the building only to be told that no one is allowed to enter (at least for that day). You don’t know how disappointing it REALLY was. And the fact that I am being reminded of it again is giving me heartbreak.

And so my mom and I asked… (wait, let me correct that). And so my mom and I PLEADED the guard if we could just take a few photographs of the captured American chinook and tanks outside the establishment. He thought for a while (insert cricket sounds here) and finally agreed. And thank heavens he did! At least that granted close encounter with a historic military craft and terrain vehicle cheered me up a bit.

Chinook Helicopter (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

M48 Patton Tanks (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

As my mom and I got into our respective tintins, she told me that if ever we’re going to come back to Ho Chi Minh, we shall visit the museum once again and hopefully, by that time, be caught under the bone-tingling atmosphere described by those who have experienced it firsthand. Believe me, I will hold on to that promise.

Inh and his friend pedalled once more and brought my mom and I to another must-see structure in Ho Chi Minh—The Reunification Palace.

Reunification Palace (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

TRAVELOCITIES DESTINATION – THE REUNIFICATION PALACE

Formerly known as the Norodom Palace (after King Norodom of Cambodia) and eventually, the Independence Palace; the Reunification Palace (Vietnamese name: Dinh Thong Nhat) is a time capsule that contains significant events in Vietnam’s history.

After France invaded South Vietnam, the first palace (Norodom Palace) built on its grounds was used by a series of French governors as their residence and office during their respective periods. When the French were defeated during World War II, the Japanese replaced them and used the palace as their headquarters. But the Japanese occupation was short; and France, being a member of the Allies, regained power and took over the whole country. The Viet Minh communists did not want invaders on their soil and persistently fought their way in North Vietnam until the French troops surrendered. The last members of the French battalion headed by General Paul Ely handed the palace to Prime Minister Ngo Dinh Diem and the entire South Vietnam to anti-communists. The following year, Ngo Dinh Diem declared himself president of the Republic Vietnam, renamed the palace (Independence Palace) and stirred a rebellion. Two pilots of the Vietnam Air Force flew planes and bombed the palace. Miraculously, the bomb dropped at the palace’s main office, where Ngo Dinh Diem was reading, did not detonate! Ngo Dinh Diem escaped the assassination attempt, ordered the wrecked palace to be demolished, commissioned a new building in its place, and transferred to Gia Long Palace (now called the Ho Chi Minh City Museum). However, a successful coup d’état caused the death of Ngo Dinh Diem even before the construction of the new palace was completed. General Nguyen Van Thieu of the military junta took over and inaugurated the new Independence Palace, where he, in due course, resided and worked. But the communists in North Vietnam thought that the time has come to unify the country and launched a full-force campaign. At 10:45 am on the 30^th of April 1975, a military tank of the North Vietnamese Army crashed through the main gate of the palace and, consequently, ended the Vietnam War. The building was renamed the Reunification Palace in memory of the said historic moment.

The Reunification Palace is located at 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street at District 1. It is a palace mightily standing at the center of a 12-hectare land area bombarded at all sides by spacious gardens covered by various greeneries. The palace has a presidential office, a couple of receiving rooms and bedrooms, a basement with old radio equipment and walls covered with strategy and tactics maps, and a helicopter pad at the rooftop. Not to be missed when visiting the palace are two original Russian tanks used during the capture of the palace and parked at the lawn. The palace is open daily to visitors from 7:30 am to 4:30 pm. The ticketing booth closes for a lunch break from 11:00 am to 1:30 pm. The cost for the entrance fee is 15000 VND or approximately 0.75 US$, and is paid at the main gate. Heavy security checks are conducted. Dangerous items are confiscated. Small bags are permitted to be taken inside while large baggages are to be deposited at the security counter. The palace is also strict in implementing the “No Smoking” and “Keep off the Lawn” policies.

With all the rich history that pervades the Reunification Palace, it is a shame not to be able to enter through its gates, walk on its grounds and feel its rooms and hallways. And with that, my friends, I say to you, “shame on me.” You can start launching and throwing those tomatoes right at me. For the second time around, the establishment I wanted to go visit was unavailable for public viewing (at least for that day) due to a special visit from a VIP, whose name was not mentioned by the officer at the gate. You see, the Reunification Palace is oftentimes closed for special events and visits from prominent people. And that day, of all the 365 days in the calendar, that person, whoever he or she is, snatched my once-in-a-lifetime privilege to inhale some of those remaining historical air trapped within the palace!

There was no hope begging the officer because the palace was to be patched up before the VIP arrives. And so with all the remaining pride I have, my mom and I took a few photos at the front gate.

History Behind Bars (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Russian Tanks (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

TRAVELOCITIES TIP #1

To further indulge in Vietnamese history, there are lots of significant places that I have not visited (which hopefully I will when I get back) that you may include in your checklist. The following are:

1. Ho Chi Minh Museum – It is an old building guarded by a peaceful garden and is located at the waterfront of 1 Nguyen Tat Thanh at District 4. It houses influential Vietnamese leader Ho Chi Minh’s (from whom the city was named) personal items and is a more visual reference for a basic outline of his life.
2. The Museum of Ho Chi Minh City – Located at 65 Ly Tu Trong at District 1, it is another powerful resource for studying Vietnamese history. Confined inside its walls are communist artifacts and items related to different subjects such as religion, archaeology, and economy.  
3. Cu Chi Tunnels – It is a network of hand-carved underground tunnels located at Cu Chi District, 55 miles northwest of central Ho Chi Minh. The narrow passages once used by Viet Cong guerrillas has been cleaned and improved to serve as an area for viewing Vietnam War exhibits, a souvenir shop, and a shooting range (1 US$ per bullet) for the entertainment of both local and foreign tourists.

The War Remnants Museum and the Reunification Palace are two of Ho Chi Minh’s most powerful memoirs of Vietnamese history. Despite being old structures in the modern world, they seem to take the past with them and allow the new generations (both natives and foreigners) to not only have a glimpse but rather have an overall feel of the pre, mid and post-Vietnam War. And I am frustrated, embarrassed but mostly, deeply sorrowed that I have failed to experience their historical potencies that day. And I pray that God wills me to have another stopover at Ho Chi Minh. And if ever it does happen, I will do my best to no longer miss the opportunity of witnessing the wars and the woes. At the bottom of my heart, I am hoping—desiring to revisit.

Yes. Someday I will.

Click on the following link to read Part 2:

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 2): Under the Green Canopy

Click on the following link to read Part 4:

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 4): At the Heart of Ho Chi Minh

Flying to another country from the Philippines? Learn how to make your way through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport by clicking on the following link:

Making Your Way through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

EK Encarnacion has experienced being inside a submarine and would love to be given the opportunity to ride a tank and a warplane. Boys and Toys as they say. To learn more of his likes, visit his other blogs: Every-Comedy-Thing (life blog), Culinary Coliseum (food blog), and By God’s Grace (gratitude blog). EK’s works are also indexed at the Filipino Diaspora.  

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 2): Under the Green Canopy

By: EK Encarnacion

If my mom and I were plants, we would have been photosynthesizing by then as the sun had been scattering its blinding rays for more than an hour already when we woke up. I got up and took a bath while she prepared a small bag to take as we tour Ho Chi Minh, and then vice versa. After getting ourselves ready; we left our large bags in the room, locked the door and headed to the reception area to surrender our room key. To my discomfort, the lobby was filled with an even MORE (note the capitalization and bolding for further stressing the point) pungent burning incense-like odor I first encountered outside the airport. I rushed outside to the streets to have a gasp of a fresher and more tolerable air. I have really nothing personal against the owner’s religious beliefs. But since he built a guest house that accommodates almost anyone, he should have at least taken into consideration the fact that not everyone could feel at home with that very overpowering (not to mention, asphyxiating) smell that is saturating his place.

 My mom and I first proceeded to the Sapaco Bus Terminal, a few meters from the inn, to purchase seats of a bus that will leave for Phnom Penh, Cambodia on the same day.

TRAVELOCITIES REMINDER #1

Sapaco is a popular bus company in Vietnam. Its main terminal in Saigon is located at District 1 at the intersection of Pham Ngu Lao Road and Do Quang Dao Street. The said terminal opens for business at around 5:30 in the morning. The schedule of departure of buses are 6:00 am, 7:00 am, 8:00 am, 9:00 am, 10:00 am, 11:30 am and 1:00 pm. Sapaco is said to be one of those that offers the cheapest modes of transportation from Saigon to Phnom Penh, Cambodia (approximately 6 hours travel) and from Saigon to Siem Reap, Cambodia (approximately 12 hours travel). The Saigon to Phnom Penh fare ranges from 11-15 US$ while the Saigon to Siem Reap fare falls within 18-22 US$.  Bus fares are dependent both on the route to be taken and the services included. The usual amenities claimed by the bus company are air-conditioning, checking of passports, usage of toilet, a wet towel, a bottle of water, immigration processing, and a rest stop. For non-ASEAN passport holders, a visa entry for Cambodia is required. The bus company also claims to handle visa processing for about 24-26 US$. Sapaco also promises tagging of checked-in luggage for security, a hand towel, and a snack. But my mom and I were certain that during our travel the company missed out on these three. Despite its appeal to budget backpackers, the bus company has also earned negative comments from a lot (and I really mean it) of dissatisfied (and some, abused) customers. My mom and I’s trip via Sapaco may be deemed as relatively good overall. However, we still have our little share of commentaries and suggestions. But that is to be featured in my blog entry regarding our bus travel from Saigon to Phnom Penh). A popular and oftentimes considered to be the most patronized and most suitable substitute for Sapaco Bus is the Mekong Express. Its fare falls on the same range as Sapaco but the services are said to be more complete thus allowing the company to receive a downpour of good reviews.

Upon arranging our ride, we then crossed a short pedestrian lane traversing Do Quang Dao Street to reach the other segment of Pham Ngu Lao Road.

TRAVELOCITIES DESTINATION – PHAM NGU LAO ROAD

It has been said that Pham Ngu Lao Road is comparable to Thailand’s Khao San Road (to be featured in my blog entry of Bangkok, Thailand) and to the Philippines’ Baclaran, Divisoria, Quiapo and Recto. This main avenue at Pham Ngu Lao Area at District 1 is lined with stalls/stores/shops/mini markets that sell cheap items including authentic Vietnamese street food, clothes (which more often than not are either imitations or those belonging to Class A or Class B), toys, souvenirs and war memorabilia. Local restaurants, cafes and bars are also a common sight so as to provide inexpensive Vietnamese dining experiences with an additional taste of local entertainment.

Pham Ngu Lao Road (Photograph by EK Encarnacion) 

As my mom and I walked along the sidewalk of Pham Ngu Lao Road, we chanced upon lots of Vietnamese shop owners seated on small stools drinking cups of hot coffee or tea. Western tourists also dominated the area—briskly walking with their backpacks while clutching a map or two in their hands. And then there were motorcycles, a hundred (or more!) of them parked along Pham Ngu Lao Road. At the corner of my mind, I have reason to believe that the ratio of motorcycles to a resident in Ho Chi Minh is 2 is to 1. I seriously believe that we have a problem of air pollution at Ho Chi Minh (and I’m not just talking about the pungent burning incense-like odor but also of the exhaust from motorcycles!). Anyway, I honestly was expecting to bump onto a bigger and noisier crowd at Pham Ngu Lao Road. But I guess most people were just too sleepy to wake up early (although, it was kind-of late for me) in the morning.

My mom and I traversed Pham Ngu Lao Road to reach the other sidewalk and stroll under the trees of a small unnamed park. I wasn’t that much surprised to be seeing several people engaging in physical activities at the site. A lot of East and Southeast Asians (most especially those residing in the mainland) have surpassed a hundred years of existence due to regular exercise and/or movement, and intake of medical herbs and other plant extracts. There were a number of senior citizens and youngsters (but mostly senior citizens) jogging, running and/or walking. However, what really caught my attention and perhaps my most favourite park scene was a team of men, whose ages probably fall within the late thirties and early fifties, playing a game resembling the Philippines’ sipa or Malaysia’s sepak takraw. I was just so astonished at how they were able to turn the ball back and forth from one side of the court to the other at a blink of an eye. If you have watched a ping pong match before with Chinese players at both sides of the table, then the staggering speed of the ball I’m speaking of in this paragraph would be a no brainer.

The Vietnamese Version of Sipa or Sepak Takraw (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

I was also able to find a peddler wearing the traditional Vietnamese headdress called non la.

TRAVELOCITIES INFORMATION – NON LA

Non la means leaf hat. This conical headdress in Vietnam are the most noted in Southeast Asia as the Vietnamese as oppose to other nationalities are said to decorate their hats with beautifully crafted ornaments that convey love and war. And so I asked my mom to take a picture of me with the street vendor passing by on the background.

My mom and I reached the intersection of Pham Ngu Lao and Nguyen Thi Nghia and waited for a thousand motorcycles to pass before we can actually reach 23/9 Park.

Vietnamese Peddler Wearing a Non La (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

TRAVELOCITIES DESTINATION - 23/9 PARK

23/9 Park, rarely called by its actual name: 23 September Park, is one of Ho Chi Minh’s prominent parks at District 1 perhaps next to 30/4 Park (to be featured in the later portion of this entry). Although of small land area, 23/9 boasts of its relatively clean cut green flooring heavily adorned at one end with giant trees that stand inches away from and along the sidewalk of the park. The park is a relatively good place for exercising with a group, spending time with loved ones or just being alone and contemplating on things.

23/9 Park or 23 September Park (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Under the Green Canopy of 23/9 Park (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

TRAVELOCITIES LINK #1

Time Lapse Video of 23/9 Park

TRAVELOCITIES TIP #1

There have also been reports of undesirable activities such as gambling and prostitution happening in 23/9 regardless of the time of day. Card scams conducted by devious Vietnamese, Malaysians, Filipinos and several other Southeast Asian nationalities lure tourists into playing cards, trapping them into the complexities of the game and causing them to lose large sums of money. Prostitutes skulk around the area and offer sexual services. Fortunately, my mom and I did not encounter any of these people. I highly suggest that you always practice vigilance when strolling at unfamiliar grounds.

While my mom and I were busy taking photographs, an old man named Inh approached us and offered a tour of Ho Chi Minh via a mode of transportation called a tintin.

TRAVELOCITIES INFORMATION – TINTIN

A tintin (also called a cyclo or a cycle rickshaw) is a three-wheeled vehicle introduced in Vietnam during the French colonial period and is nowadays prevalently used in the country’s major cities such as Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi. Its population most likely tails that of motorcycles and is often a more local way (as opposed to a taxi cab) of touring specific sites around metros. The vehicle comfortably seats only one passenger while the driver pedals at the back. It appears to be a fusion between a bicycle and a tricycle or better, a creative variation of the Indonesian becak or Philippine pedicab. The advantages of a tintin over a motorcycle in viewing Ho Chi Minh are as follows: (a) the former is more stable having three wheels rather than two; (b) as a result of (a), the passenger feels a little more secure and can remove his or her grip from the side handles at any time to check on his or her bags, take photographs, or read a map; (c) the passenger is able to have a 180 degrees unhindered front view of the places as the driver is pedalling at the rear end; and (d) as a result of my environmental advocacy, a tintin is a hundred times more eco-friendly than a motorcycle (plus, the driver gets his daily dose of exercise and burns unwanted fats).

Inh offered a 10 US$/passenger tour of Ho Chi Minh’s most acclaimed landmarks. My mom and I refused because we both know that it was too much for the route and service he specified. I mean, we’d rather walk if that was the case. But he was persistent. He then offered a 5 US$/passenger tour of Ho Chi Minh. To think that the price was halved at an instant, I really made sure that all three of us understood what he just laid down in front all of us, “You mean, my mom will pay 5 US$ for her ride and I will pay 5 US$ for my ride, which makes it a total of 10 US$.” He nodded his head with gladness. Although I still believed the price could have been lowered, half the original fare wasn’t really a bad offer after all. Eventually, my mom and I agreed. Inh called his friend whose name slipped my mind. Before we took off, my mom and I did some shots while sitting on the tintin.

Me on a Tintin (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

The first destination in our roster was 30/4 Park.

TRAVELOCITIES DESTINATION – 30/4 PARK OR TAO DAN PARK

Although logic may indicate that 30/4 is called 30 April Park, it actually isn’t. 30/4 is most commonly known as Tao Dan Park. 30/4 is apparently Ho Chi Minh’s most favourite site for practicing martial arts, camping, buying souvenir items, appreciating detailed sculptures or just aimlessly wandering alone or with a special someone. Truong Dinh Street cuts 30/4 into two separate forested areas of equal size. Dispersed throughout both green zones are towering trees that seem to reach out to the heavens.  Sculptures, park sheds and establishments are strategically placed at various locations to provide more things for the eyes to feast on. Tao Dan Park was featured in Season 15 of the hit reality TV show, Amazing Race. It was actually the site for one of the choices in a Detour. In the said task (called Child’s Play), teams had to find a kiosk named Nhiep Anh Cong vien Tao Dan Kiosque Giao Anh and transport a concrete animal statue to a nearby children’s playground, collecting five different colored balloons along the way, in order to receive the next clue.

Truong Dinh Street: The Crossing of Tao Dan Park (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Martial Arts Practice at 30/4 Park (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Camping at 30/4 Park (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Pinwheels for Sale at 30/4 Park (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Sculptures at 30/4 Park (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Tao Dan Kiosk included in the 15th Season of Amazing Race (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

My mom and I enjoyed the sceneries while seated on our respective tintins. We also got down on a few chosen locations to take pictures. We took off afterwards. As Inh and his friend pedalled the tintins and took my mom and I at the intersection of Truong Dinh Street and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, I cannot help but look back at the magnificent forest resting right in the middle of urban Ho Chi Minh. How I wish the Philippines was also able to preserve astounding jungles at the middle of every city in Metro Manila (not just the Eco-Park in Quezon City)—parks with lofty trees that can counter the heat effects intensified by concrete buildings and asphalted roadways.

But soon I found out that it wasn’t just the green canopies that I was envious of. 

Click on the following link to read Part 1:

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 1): Anh Yeu Em Miss Saigon

Click on the following link to read Part 3:

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 3): Of Wars and Woes

Flying to another country from the Philippines? Learn how to make your way through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport by clicking on the following link:

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

EK Encarnacion has planted a lot of vegetable-bearing seeds during high school. But in his years of existence, the only plant he managed to grow was monggo, which can be done by a kindergarten student with his or her eyes closed. Fine! He doesn’t have a green thumb. To learn more of his inabilities, visit his blogs: Every-Comedy-Thing (life blog), Culinary Coliseum (food blog) and By God’s Grace (gratitutde blog). His works are also listed at the Pinoy group blog, The Filipino Diaspora. 

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 1): Anh Yeu Em Miss Saigon

By: EK Encarnacion

Aerial View of Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam at Past Midnight (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

It was about an hour past midnight when the craft landed at the Tan Son Nhat International Airport. My mom and I got our hand-carries from the overhead compartment and joined the rest of the passengers in a long slow-moving caravan out the plane and through the airport. Knowing that I am now in a non-English-speaking country, I immediately pulled out my camera and took a picture of the first Vietnamese words I’ll encounter. I honestly thought I’ll be taking a photo of the restroom. Good thing this signage came first.

Den and Chuyen Tiep Signage (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

My mom and I did a few more photo-ops at one of the airport’s hallways, waited at the area for claiming our baggage and instantly grabbed our check-ins which were restlessly lying down on the revolving conveyor belt a few minutes later.

Welcome to Ho Chi Minh City Signage (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Welcome EK Encarnacion to Ho Chi Minh City! (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

Ho Chi Minh City Welcomes Me and My Mom (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)

We then proceeded to the immigration counter to get our passports stamped (hooray! my very first mark in my new passport!). Afterwards, we made our way to the exit. Upon stepping outside, I took one large breath of Saigon air and discovered something. There was a distinct smell in the atmosphere which may be somewhat associated with mainland East Asia. I don’t know if my nose was just playing tricks on me but (really) I was able to recognize a (and I’m not really sure about this!) pungent burning incense-like odor mixed with the smell of Oriental spices and herbs. And believe me I did check if somebody was just offering prayer to the gods while partaking in a bowl of noodle soup (talk about multitasking!)—but to my surprise, there was none.

A taxi driver approached us and suggested a 12 US$ ride to Pham Ngu Lao at District 1 but my mom refused right away. I asked her why and taught me my very first lesson in Vietnam, or in travelling for that matter.

TRAVELOCITIES TIP #1

Bargain. Whenever possible, bargain. If not, determine the lowest travel fare or item price by inquiring other people who appears trustworthy. When mingling with tourists, public utility drivers and street/market/mini-mall vendors often put large amounts of additional charge on the final rate of the fare or price, which in most cases is ridiculously twice or thrice (or worst case scenario, five times) the original cost. Do not be swayed easily by the seemingly heart-warming first offer of a driver or vendor. The cost of an airport taxi ride from the Tan Son Nhat International Airport to Pham Ngu Lao Road had been known to play at around 6-7 US$ (or perhaps even lower).

TRAVELOCITIES TIP #2

Notice that the currency I used is in US$. Due to the influx of tourists from all parts of the world, Vietnamese public utility drivers and street/market/mini-mall vendors accept US$. However, it is quite advantageous to slip in a few Dongs (Vietnamese currency) in the wallet so as to pay for travel fares and item prices that cost less.

Vietnamese Dongs (Credits to Google Images for the Photograph)

After a bunch of other drivers came and proposed similar rates, a friendly taxi driver named Minh agreed to the fare that my mom and I knew. He first assisted us in loading our baggage at the back of the taxi then invited me and my mom to take our respective seats. Inside, I got the chance to have a short chitchat with and learn a few handy Vietnamese phrases from Minh who can speak English more fluently than others.

I learned that Minh has been a taxi driver for more than ten years. He has already been married to a woman who up to this very moment I still cannot recall the occupation he mentioned. Or maybe she was a housewife? Sadly, it slipped my mind. Anyhow, he (if I am not mistaken) has five daughters whom he is proud of. Although I remembered him stating that being given a son would make him even happier.

A few useful Vietnamese phrases I have extracted from Minh included:

TRAVELOCITIES TRANSLATION – VIETNAMESE

Hello, Hi, Good Morning, Good Noon, Good Afternoon, and Good Evening – Xin chao

(Notice that the Vietnamese do not differentiate the times of the day. A single phrase applies for all)

Excuse me and Sorry – Xin loi

Do you speak English? – Ban co noi tieng English?

My name is EK Encarnacion – Toi ten la EK Encarnacion

I am from the Philippines – Toi den tu Philippines

Where is the airport? – San bay o dau?

How do you say _____ in Vietnamese? – Ban noi _____ the nao trong tieng Viet?

How much is this? – Cai nay gia bao nhieu?

Thank You or Thanks – Cam on

Goodbye – Tam biet

I love you – Em yeu anh (directed towards males), Anh yeu em (directed towards females)

Despite the time, I was still hyped about learning Vietnamese phrases that I can use during my stay in Saigon. Unfortunately, Minh finally came to a halt and indicated that we have already reached our stop. Minh unloaded our baggage and my mom paid him in return for all his graciousness. For a weird reason, I felt sad bidding farewell to someone who I barely knew but had been very accommodating to me, my mom, and my queries. And so I asked Minh if he could give us a calling card so that my mom and I can contact him if ever we come back to Vietnam. He told me that he doesn’t have a personal number but would be giving us the contact details of his friend whom we can call and ask to direct us to him.

And after writing down the number, he drove back to the airport while my mom and I carried our bags to survey the area for open (because it was just past two in the morning!) and clean but inexpensive guest houses or inns at Pham Ngu Lao. We were actually blessed to find one that was open although the guest house wasn’t really a place I would recommend as it was small, crammed and quite non-homey. The only two important things I would praise the inn for were our room’s relatively good air-conditioning unit and the place’s nearness to the Sapaco Bus Terminal for land travel going to Phnom Penh, Cambodia, my mom and I’s second destination city.

TRAVELOCITIES DESTINATION – PHAM NGU LAO

Pham Ngu Lao, named after Vietnam’s national hero, is a famous area at District 1 and is known to be Saigon’s khu tay ba lo or backpackers’ haven. Guest houses and inns, hotels and mini hotels are scattered across the vicinity and offers the cheapest stay-in rates within the city. Pham Ngu Lao is also home to a lot of stalls/stores/shops/markets, local restaurants, cafes, and bars and thus, is also one of the busiest places around the metro especially at night. Pham Ngu Lao Road is the main street in the locale and is paralleled and intersected by other minor lanes such as Bui Vien, De Tham, and Do Quang Dao. This crisscross network of roadways creates one of the city’s well-travelled mazes that should not be an unfamiliar ground to budget-inclined and adventurous tourists alike.  

TRAVELOCITIES TIP #3

Not all guest houses or inns at Pham Ngu Lao are open at early dawn. Therefore in order to avoid what my mom and I experienced, I highly suggest that you either (a) choose a flight that will take you to Saigon somewhere during the day or (b) contact the owner or staff of your chosen guest house or inn, hotel or mini hotel beforehand so as to inform them of your arrival in case your plane is scheduled to land in Saigon at night or at dawn. The following is a list of some of the guest houses or inns, hotels and mini hotels located at Pham Ngu Lao Road and the streets parallel to and intersecting it. The prices for these guest houses or inns, hotels and mini hotels are expected to be more affordable as Pham Ngu Lao is, as mentioned earlier, a backpacker-friendly neighborhood.

Pham Ngu Lao Road

1. Duna Hotel
2. Elios Hotel
3. Giant Dragon Hotel
4. Tram Anh
5. Vien Dong Hotel

Bui Vien Street (parallel to Pham Ngu Lao Road)

1. An An Hotel
2. Hai Ha Hotel
3. Happy Inn
4. Huong Mini Hotel
5. Kim Hotel
6. Le Trung Hotel
7. Phan Lan Guest House
8. Phi Long
9. Phoenix Hotel
10. Thai Nhi Mini Hotel

De Tham Street (intersecting Pham Ngu Lao Road)

1. Hoang Linh Hotel
2. Hong Hoa Hotel
3. Quyen Thanh
4. Ngoc Dang Hotel
5. Orient Hotel
6. Vinh Guest House

Do Quang Dao Street (intersecting Pham Ngu Lao Road)

1. The Trinh

You may want to check on the following links to learn more (e.g. prices, amenities and reviews) of these inexpensive guest houses and inns, hotels and mini hotels at Pham Ngu Lao as well as the more pricey, more comfortable and more accessible (i.e. those that are still open even at past midnight) hotels around Central Saigon.

TRAVELOCITIES LINK #1

Travelfish (Ho Chi Minh City Guest Houses, Hotels and Resorts) Website

TRAVELOCITIES LINK #1

Agoda (Ho Chi Minh City Hotels) Website

As we settled in for a while before the sun eventually breaks into the horizon, my mom and I strongly hoped that the goodness and blessings we experienced during our ÐÊN (see the second photograph again) would continue to extend until the time we leave the city. In fact, after I lied down on the bed, I remembered Minh and how he had made a good first impression on me and my mom. As I closed my eyes and wished that the other locals we will meet during our stay are as welcoming as Minh, I joyfully whispered the words “Anh Yeu Em Miss Saigon” to myself.

But maybe I concluded too soon.

Click on the following link to read Part 2:

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 2): Under the Green Canopy

Flying to another country from the Philippines? Learn how to make your way through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport by clicking on the following link:

Making Your Way Through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

EK Encarnacion’s obsession with the reality show Amazing Race has caused him to be quite familiar with Ho Chi Minh. To learn more of his other obsessions, visit his blogs: Every-Comedy-Thing (life blog), Culinary Coliseum (food blog) and By God’s Grace (gratitude blog). His works are also indexed at one of the best online pools of Pinoy writers, The Filipino Diaspora.